Almost a decade ago, a motley group of Japanese ultranationalists gathered in front of a Korean elementary school in Kyoto. They came to protest the school’s use of the public park across the street. The school was an ideal target: it was affiliated with North Korea and did not have the means to fight back….
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What is the Japanese taste of umami?
The first time I heard about umami, I had started working in a run-down sushi shop on top of Nob Hill in San Francisco. I learned how to steam Japanese rice and season it with the appropriate balance of sweetness and sourness. I cleaned and gutted small fish as I was not to be trusted…